Owning a guinea pig or any other pet is not something to go into lightly. When you are responsible for someone else, you need to keep their best interests in mind. So it is with owning, loving and caring for a guinea pig. Here are some good rules to go by:
Keep your guinea pig's pen nice and clean. A guinea pig has practically no odor unless they have an owner that doesn't help them keep clean. Guinea pigs eat a lot, and what goes in one end comes out the other very quickly! When we were using wood chips as bedding, Mom and I cleaned our guinea pig pen every day, and changed it twice a week. After that we started using shredded paper (Dad got a paper shredder for Christmas gift) and Mom changed the pen every day. Now we have decided the best bedding is straw. We buy a big bale for about $4.00 from the feed store and it lasts for months! We change the pen about every three days and it makes the guinea pigs smell like a fresh barn.
Guinea pigs need fresh food and water with lots of variety every day. Check their food and water bowls frequently, and if you use a water bottle, change the water often. Guinea pigs also need to wear down their front teeth by gnawing. Give them something to gnaw on; our pigs like alfalfa blocks and cardboard boxes.
Never keep your guinea pig in a pen with an exposed wire mesh floor. These types of pens are meant for rabbits that have big feet. A pig is not able to walk easily across the wire and will develop sores on his feet. A pig pal wrote to us recently and said to soak your pig's feet in warm water and epsom salts if any sores develop. This will help the swelling and clean the feet. Then be sure to cover up the wire mesh floor to avoid any more foot problems! We have a hutch for our pigs with a wire floor, but we cover it with several layers of newspaper for easy clean up.
Learn to properly pick up, hold, and carry your guinea pig. Always support their bottoms, and hold them firmly so they feel secure. But don't squeeze them!
Give your pig lots of company. Talk to her, hold her a lot, bring her to school, take her outside to eat fresh grass...just be a good friend and companion. They will return your kindness with affection. You might even consider having two pigs, keeping in mind that a boy and girl pig will have babies, even if they are related.
It's a good idea to get a special book about guinea pigs so you can read up on them and learn what to do in case of illness. Pet stores always have good books about guinea pig care and feeding. Your local library will have books too. Our favorite is called Guinea Pigs, Family Pet Series by Katrin Behrend.
Keep your pig's nails trimmed. A good guinea pig book will tell you how to do it.
Guinea pigs have sensitive hearing, so don't ever make loud noises into their ears.
A good rule for anything is the Golden Rule. Do you know it? It goes like this:
Treat others the way you want to be treated.
Treat anyone, your neighbor, your brother, your guinea pig, with kindness--just the way you want to be treated. Thinking about others first is the best way to be, and a sure way to become a caring, responsible person!
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Did you know? List of Facts about Guinea Pigs
Facts are statements which are held to be true and often contrasted with opinions and beliefs. Our unusual and interesting facts about Guinea Pig, trivia and information, including some useful statistics about animals will fascinate everyone from kids and children to adults. Interesting Facts about Guinea Pig are as follows:
Fact 1 - Definition: The guinea pig (Cavia porcellus), stout-bodied nearly tail-less domesticated rodent which can be trained and is often kept as a pet. Often called a 'cavy'
Fact 2 - There are 3 basic types of domestic guinea pigs:
The American/English guinea pig has short hair with a smooth coat
The Abyssinian guinea pig has a wiry coat with hair that swirls into rosettes
The Peruvian guinea pig has straight hair that is long and silky
Fact 3 - Guinea Pigs are not pigs, nor do they come from Guinea! Guinea refers to Guyana and their short robust bodies gives them a piggish appearance
Fact 4 - Guinea Pigs originated in the Andes
Fact 5 - The guinea pig (Cavia porcellus) is not found naturally in the wild although some of the domestic species have turned feral after being reintroduced into the wild
Fact 6 - They are most active during daylight hours
Fact 7 - They like to spend time grooming themselves and each other
Fact 8 - Guinea Pig stats and facts
Weight: 700 and 1200 g (1.5–2.5 pounds)
Length: 20 and 25 cm (8–10 inches)
Habitat: Grassy plains and semi-arid desert
Lifespan: 4 - 5 years
Diet: Guinea Pig are Herbivores eating mainly grass and hay
Fact 9 - The guinea pig makes a variety of noises including squealing, chirping, chattering, rumbling and purring
Fact 10 - Common health problems in the domestic guinea pig include respiratory tract infections, diarrhea, scurvy and abscesses
Fact 11 - They make ideal pets as they are easy to handle, soft and furry, look cute and do not bite or scratch
Fact 12 - Guinea Pigs are highly sociable animals and are happiest if kept in groups
Fact 13 - Females are called "sows" and males are called "boars".
Fact 14 - The offspring of guinea pigs are called pups
Fact 15 - The teeth of the guinea pig never stop growing and they need to constantly gnaw on something hard to wear them down
Fact 16 - The pups are born with lots of fur and open eyes
Fact 1 - Definition: The guinea pig (Cavia porcellus), stout-bodied nearly tail-less domesticated rodent which can be trained and is often kept as a pet. Often called a 'cavy'
Fact 2 - There are 3 basic types of domestic guinea pigs:
The American/English guinea pig has short hair with a smooth coat
The Abyssinian guinea pig has a wiry coat with hair that swirls into rosettes
The Peruvian guinea pig has straight hair that is long and silky
Fact 3 - Guinea Pigs are not pigs, nor do they come from Guinea! Guinea refers to Guyana and their short robust bodies gives them a piggish appearance
Fact 4 - Guinea Pigs originated in the Andes
Fact 5 - The guinea pig (Cavia porcellus) is not found naturally in the wild although some of the domestic species have turned feral after being reintroduced into the wild
Fact 6 - They are most active during daylight hours
Fact 7 - They like to spend time grooming themselves and each other
Fact 8 - Guinea Pig stats and facts
Weight: 700 and 1200 g (1.5–2.5 pounds)
Length: 20 and 25 cm (8–10 inches)
Habitat: Grassy plains and semi-arid desert
Lifespan: 4 - 5 years
Diet: Guinea Pig are Herbivores eating mainly grass and hay
Fact 9 - The guinea pig makes a variety of noises including squealing, chirping, chattering, rumbling and purring
Fact 10 - Common health problems in the domestic guinea pig include respiratory tract infections, diarrhea, scurvy and abscesses
Fact 11 - They make ideal pets as they are easy to handle, soft and furry, look cute and do not bite or scratch
Fact 12 - Guinea Pigs are highly sociable animals and are happiest if kept in groups
Fact 13 - Females are called "sows" and males are called "boars".
Fact 14 - The offspring of guinea pigs are called pups
Fact 15 - The teeth of the guinea pig never stop growing and they need to constantly gnaw on something hard to wear them down
Fact 16 - The pups are born with lots of fur and open eyes
The Most Common Guinea Pig Health Problems
Compared to other pets, guinea pigs are very fragile pets and prone to illness. I have outlined the most common health problems your guinea pig may experience.
Runny Nose and Sneezing
Is your guinea pig sneezing? If you have noticed your guinea pig sneezing a lot lately, then it may be allergic to its bedding.
Quick Tip: Change your guinea pigs bedding and see if that solves the problem. Further action would be to remove him from the area for a few days and see if that helps.
If you notice your guinea has a runny nose or rubbing her nose a lot, you should bring her to the vet immediately to get it checked out.
Coughing
Coughing is a serious condition especially when combined with wheezing or heavy breathing. This could be an infection that will need to be looked at by your vet.
Wheezing and Heavy Breathing
Like coughing, wheezing and heavy breathing can indicate a serious health problem that should be looked at by your vet. Wheezing could indicate congestion in the lungs that could become pneumonia.
Scratching
If you notice your guinea pig scratching more than usual then it might have lice or some sort of fungal infection.
First, brush through the hair slowly and look for any small bugs, these could be lice. Your vet can provide medicated shampoo for your pet. You should also clean and disinfect your guinea pigs home.
Milky-White Urine or Sludgey Bladder
Guinea pig urine normally has a slight milky color to it. If you notice extremely white or even clear urine, this could mean that the calcium level in his diet is too high. Thick urine is also a symptom of this.
Pink or Red Urine
If your guinea pig has pink or red urine you need to take him to the vet immediately. That is blood in the urine. One cause of this is bladder stones.
Again, a trip to the vet is necessary at once.
Excessive Diarrhea
Diarrhea can be a serious condition for your guinea pig. Excessive diarrhea can lead to death within hours.
Usually diarrhea in guinea pigs is just because he has eaten too many wet foods or veggies. Increasing hay intake can solve this issue.
Lactobacillus acidophilus is another option to help. You can get it over the counter in capsule form.
If your guinea pig has excessive diarrhea, contact your vet.
Guinea Pig Hair Loss
There can be more than one reasons why your guinea pig is losing hair.
Any time there is a wound the hair will fall out until the area has healed.
Mites and ringworm can cause massive amounts of hair loss all over the body. Ovarian cysts can also be a cause. In short, you should visit your vet any time there is extreme hair loss from anything other than a cut.
Watery Eyes
Allergies, dust, and dirt can be causes of your guinea pig having watery eyes. Your vet can provide instructions on how to best rinse your pet’s eyes.
If you notice sores or little cysts around the eye, you will want to visit your vet to have them removed. These can be very painful and should be dealt with immediately.
Stiff Joints
Scurvy is the most common cause of stiff joints. A lack of vitamin C and calcium can cause this. You should visit your vet at once to start treatment.
Tilting Head
Have you noticed your pet having issues walking or constantly tilting her head to one side? This could be a middle-ear infection and affecting her balance.
This should be treated at once by your vet to prevent any hearing loss or worse.
My Guinea Pig is Having Seizures
If you notice a seizure where your piggy has his head straight in the air, NOT tilting at all, this is a sign of mites. Mites can affect the nervous system by burrowing under the skin.
Seizures where the head is tilted to the side can be caused by any number of issues.
Either type of seizure needs to be treated immediately. Your vet may want to conduct blood tests as well to find the cause.
Runny Nose and Sneezing
Is your guinea pig sneezing? If you have noticed your guinea pig sneezing a lot lately, then it may be allergic to its bedding.
Quick Tip: Change your guinea pigs bedding and see if that solves the problem. Further action would be to remove him from the area for a few days and see if that helps.
If you notice your guinea has a runny nose or rubbing her nose a lot, you should bring her to the vet immediately to get it checked out.
Coughing
Coughing is a serious condition especially when combined with wheezing or heavy breathing. This could be an infection that will need to be looked at by your vet.
Wheezing and Heavy Breathing
Like coughing, wheezing and heavy breathing can indicate a serious health problem that should be looked at by your vet. Wheezing could indicate congestion in the lungs that could become pneumonia.
Scratching
If you notice your guinea pig scratching more than usual then it might have lice or some sort of fungal infection.
First, brush through the hair slowly and look for any small bugs, these could be lice. Your vet can provide medicated shampoo for your pet. You should also clean and disinfect your guinea pigs home.
Milky-White Urine or Sludgey Bladder
Guinea pig urine normally has a slight milky color to it. If you notice extremely white or even clear urine, this could mean that the calcium level in his diet is too high. Thick urine is also a symptom of this.
Pink or Red Urine
If your guinea pig has pink or red urine you need to take him to the vet immediately. That is blood in the urine. One cause of this is bladder stones.
Again, a trip to the vet is necessary at once.
Excessive Diarrhea
Diarrhea can be a serious condition for your guinea pig. Excessive diarrhea can lead to death within hours.
Usually diarrhea in guinea pigs is just because he has eaten too many wet foods or veggies. Increasing hay intake can solve this issue.
Lactobacillus acidophilus is another option to help. You can get it over the counter in capsule form.
If your guinea pig has excessive diarrhea, contact your vet.
Guinea Pig Hair Loss
There can be more than one reasons why your guinea pig is losing hair.
Any time there is a wound the hair will fall out until the area has healed.
Mites and ringworm can cause massive amounts of hair loss all over the body. Ovarian cysts can also be a cause. In short, you should visit your vet any time there is extreme hair loss from anything other than a cut.
Watery Eyes
Allergies, dust, and dirt can be causes of your guinea pig having watery eyes. Your vet can provide instructions on how to best rinse your pet’s eyes.
If you notice sores or little cysts around the eye, you will want to visit your vet to have them removed. These can be very painful and should be dealt with immediately.
Stiff Joints
Scurvy is the most common cause of stiff joints. A lack of vitamin C and calcium can cause this. You should visit your vet at once to start treatment.
Tilting Head
Have you noticed your pet having issues walking or constantly tilting her head to one side? This could be a middle-ear infection and affecting her balance.
This should be treated at once by your vet to prevent any hearing loss or worse.
My Guinea Pig is Having Seizures
If you notice a seizure where your piggy has his head straight in the air, NOT tilting at all, this is a sign of mites. Mites can affect the nervous system by burrowing under the skin.
Seizures where the head is tilted to the side can be caused by any number of issues.
Either type of seizure needs to be treated immediately. Your vet may want to conduct blood tests as well to find the cause.
Guinea pig breeding
This section is intended to provide you with basic information on guinea pig mating, pregnancies, birth and babies. In that sense, we are using the word "breeding" to mean guinea pig reproduction, and not raising guinea pigs and breeding them to achieve certain breeds, varieties or show stock. It is not my intent to teach people how to raise and breed guinea pigs, but rather familiarize you with guinea pig pregnancies and babies, in case you choose to mate your pets.
If you are interested in raising guinea pigs, you should consider joining your local cavy breeder's club, and talk with experienced breeders before starting. It is also recommended that you make sure that your area is not already overflowing with guinea pig breeders, as you shouldn't contribute to a guinea pig population that may already be bursting at the seams.
* Ground rules for breeding
* Mating
* Pregnancy
* Birth
* Caring for young cavies
* Complications
Ground rules for breeding
It's best to not breed your guinea pigs unless you are willing to keep all of the babies yourself, or you have found some responsible people who would like one or more of the your offsprings as a pet. Given the rapid breeding rate of guinea pigs, animal shelters constantly receive unwanted guinea pigs from irresponsible owners who allow their guinea pigs to breed over and over. Many of these animals are put to sleep, since owners can not be found for all of them. Several guinea pig "rescue" operations around the country do their best to find homes for all of these cavies, but it's simply not possible to find new owners for all of them. Pet stores aren't much better, as many stores mistreat their animals, or fail to give them proper care. You don't want to bring guinea pigs into a situation where they will be unwanted or abused.
That being said, females should not be bred until they weigh at least 500 g (just over 1 pound), which usually works out to 4 to 5 months of age. Younger sows can be too small to successfully deliver their babies, and may not have matured enough to properly care for their young. Also, no older female should have a first litter; somewhere between 9 and 12 months of age, the hip bones of a childless sow can start to fuse together. A litter after this happens will require a caesarean section, which is an extremely risky surgery that could threaten the life of the sow and her babies. If you are going to breed your sow, you should probably arrange for her first litter between the ages of 5 and 9 months. Otherwise, you might want to consider having your sow spayed for her own safety after nine months, if there is ever any chance that she may get pregnant.
For health reasons, many breeders will recommend that you not mate your boars until they are eight months old.
Mating
Male guinea pigs can mate at any time and, in fact, are very easily aroused: the mere scent of a female is enough to engage their instincts. However, females can only mate when they are in season. The vagina of a sow is actually blocked by a mucus plug when she is not in season. A sow's estrus cycle is typically 18 days, and when she goes into heat, this mucus plug clears so that she can accept the male. During this time, which can last for up to 24 hours, she and the male will mate several times.
When the male is aroused, which is pretty much several times an hour, he will lower his head and start walking around the females with slow, deliberate steps. He will make a rumbling sound as he does this, and wag his bottom from side to side. Sometimes, he will perch his front legs on something (like the side of the cage or a brick or whatever is handy), so that he can "dance" like this in order to attract the attention of the female. As he gets close to the female's behind, he may sniff her bottom and then try to mount; sometimes, if sufficiently aroused, hey may mount the female from the sides or the front, and might even try to mount another male (if present). In fact, if mixed with another species, such as rabbits, the male may even try to mount them, too.
As the male starts his mating dance, the females may start to squeak with anxiety, becoming louder as the male approaches. If the female is not ready to accept mating, either because she is not in season or she doesn't want to mate, and the male tries to advance, she may snap at him, bite at him or just run away. If the male is particularly persistent, she will let out a small spray of urine, usually in his face, to deter him.
If, however, she is in season, she may respond in kind. In fact, some females will even advertise their readiness to mate even if the male is not aroused. The female will lower her head and rumble just like the male does, and will raise her bottom slightly into the air. She may even wag her bottom slightly to attract the male's attention. The male may circle her a few times before positioning himself behind her to mount. Copulation lasts only a few seconds. They may mate several times each hour, sometimes as frequently as a few minutes apart.
Pregnancy
The gestation period for guinea pigs is typically between 60 and 70 days. Longer gestation times tend towards smaller litters, whereas shorter times tend towards large litters. The average litter size is 2 to 4, though they can carry as many as 8 or as few as 1.
During her pregnancy, your sow's vitamin C requirement will double, at least, to 20 mg/day. She may also demand more pellets and fresh vegetables, to aid in lactation and in providing for her developing babies. This, and a little bit of sugar (from fruits or clear fruit juice) will help prevent toxemia, which is an ailment that is most commonly seen in pregnant sows.
It is not necessary to remove the male during the pregnancy, though it is generally a good idea to do so in the last week before birth, since the female will come into season again within an hour after having her litter. Sometimes, however, the male can be considered a stressor in the final days of pregnancy, and you may need to separate them if he and the sow are not getting along. If you have multiple, pregnant sows housed together, then it is extremely important that they be separated during their gestation. The birth of one sow's litter can actually induce labor in the other sow, which can lead to a premature birth even if they were impregnated at roughly the same time.
Last, it is important that you make sure your sow's stress level stays low. Stress can cause abortions, premature births and stillbirths in guinea pigs, so don't make any radical changes in her environment throughout this time.
If your sow becomes ill, you should see a competent vet immediately. Treating a pregnant sow is always dangerous business, since her babies may not be able to withstand the shock of certain medications. A vet that is experienced in treating guinea pigs should be aware of what is, and is not, safe to do while she is in-pig.
Birth
Early into the second month of her term, the sow will start to become noticeably plump. As the babies grow in size, you will actually be able to feel their bodies and even estimate how large of a litter she will have. When the babies start kicking and moving inside her womb, she is roughly three weeks away from giving birth, give or take a few days.
You won't get many warning signs as the birth day approaches. Although some sows become noticeably "bitchy" in the last week, this is not true of all females. In short, there's really no way to predict when she will go into labor. Fortunately, you do not need to do anything for her to prepare for the babies, other than make sure she has plenty of soft bedding to nest in.
Most births tend to take place around dawn or dusk, which is when guinea pigs are most active. If you are fortunate enough to be present for the birth, you can watch quietly without disrupting the process. If the male is still with her, and he hasn't been neutered, then you should remove him immediately, as the sow will come into season within an hour after birth. Babies are typically born five minutes apart, and the entire litter should deliver within a half-hour. If it goes on any longer than this, it could mean that she is having trouble giving birth, and you will need to get her to a vet right away.
With each contraction, the mother will push the babies out, one at a time. When they emerge, she will reach down and, with her teeth, break the sack that covers the baby when it's in her womb. It is very important that she do this, or the baby will suffocate. After the entire litter has been delivered, she will pass the placenta, part or all of which is then eaten. There is very little "mess" left over after a guinea pig birth; all that will be seen are a few spots of blood here and there on the bedding.
The mother will then lick the babies clean. If the father is present, he may assist in this duty. Afterwards, she will direct the babies to a corner of the hutch, where they will huddle beneath her for warmth.
As mentioned above, within an hour after birth, the sow will come into season and will be ready for mating. You should never allow a sow to become pregnant so soon after giving birth, as it is extremely hard on her body to go from labor straight into pregnancy again. Most breeders recommend waiting at least two months to allow the sow to get back to her normal weight.
Caring for young cavies
Young cavies are almost fully independent of their mother at birth, requiring only her milk and her warmth. They are born with hair, teeth, claws and open eyes. They will begin to run around on their own within hours, and will start eating solid foods within a day. Every two hours, they will line up under their mother to nurse; though sows only have two teats, there is no fighting at the milk line since the babies can munch on hay, pellets and even drink from the water bottle, if it's in reach.
Like other animals that are born precocial, guinea pigs form their social bonds shortly after birth. It is important that they have human contact during this time to socialize and bond them to people. Unlike many other small mammals, the mother will not reject the babies if they are handled by humans, so the more you hold, pet and interact with them, the more they will grow up friendly towards, and less afraid of, humans.
The babies will continue to nurse for anywhere from three to four weeks. During this time, they will follow both the mother and father around the cage. During exercise time, the guinea pig family will tend to form a "guinea pig train", with the father or mother at the head, the other parent at the end and the babies in the middle. This lineup helps ensure that no young ones get lost while moving about. They will chirp and grunt to each other often, and if a baby does get separated from the group, he or she will squeal loudly until one of the parents comes over to lead him or her back to the family.
As they start to wean during the third week, they will nurse less often from the mother, and will begin to be more independent. By four weeks of age, all the babies should be completely weaned, and no longer require milk from their mother. At this point, you should start separating the males from the family. Males can become fertile at any point after weaning, and will be capable of mating with their mother. Females can come into season any time after one month of age, usually at 5 weeks, and can then be mated by their brothers or their father. Hence, separation of virile males and females is extremely important to prevent uncontrolled inbreeding.
After they have weaned, you may safely give away pets to new homes. For the first day or two, the baby will probably be somewhat frightened of its new environment, having lost the security of it's family and it's familiar hutch. Time, and lots of love and attention from the new owners, will be needed for the baby to adjust to it's new surroundings.
Complications
Not every pregnancy goes smoothly. If you have problems with your sow or her litter, you should see a veterinarian that is experienced in the treatment of guinea pigs. The information provided below is for your reference only, and is not meant to be a substitute for a visit to a competent vet.
Young sows
Sows should not be bred until they weigh at least 500 g. However, many female guinea pigs that are purchased from pet stores are housed with males, and are already pregnant before they come home. Hence, it is rather common for a young sow to give birth before she has completely matured. If your young sow is pregnant, there are some precautions that you can take to decrease the risks.
Sow fails to break the membranes on newborns
While in the mother's womb, that babies are enveloped in a membrane (or sack) and are protected by fluid. When the babies are born, the mother is supposed to reach down with her teeth and break the sack. If she does not do this, the babies will suffocate; often times, people may think her babies were stillborn, when in fact she did not break the sack in time. If you are lucky enough to be present during the birth, you can save any babies that are not released from their sacks.
Break the membrane over the nose, open the mouth and blow several breaths, in rapid succession into the babies throat. Move the legs to get circulation (and the heart) going, and the lungs. If the baby gasps, you may be able to save it. Keep it warm in your hands and continue to blow down it's throat until you can find a towel or cloth for drying it's body (rub gently!).
Once it starts to squeak, you are on the road to recovery. Keep it warm, but do not give it anything to drink. Cover the baby with a towel and place it near a source of heat, such as a warm water bottle, or insulate it well so it will retain it's body heat and not catch a chill. After about an hour or so, when the baby is able to stand on it's own, you can reintroduce it to it's mother. Because she hasn't cleaned the baby, she won't recognize it; put it under her body, and watch her very carefully to make sure she will accept it. If she rejects the baby, you may try again later, but if she continues to reject it then you will have to treat it as an orphaned cavy.
Premature termination of labor
If the sow is having an especially difficult labor, and can not deliver one or more of her babies, labor may terminate before they are all born. If you suspect that this is happening or might happen, then you should get her to a vet right away. If labor terminates with unborn babies in her womb, they will need to be surgically removed. The babies will die inside her and will poison her as they decompose if they are not removed immediately.
Rejected babies
Some sows may, on rare occasions reject one of their litter. She will refuse to nurse it, and will constantly move away from it if you try to introduce it to her. In these cases, you will have to treat the baby as an orphaned cavy.
Terrified mothers
Some sows are actually terrified of their own litter, even if they have partially cleaned the babies. In these cases, the mother will shriek wildly and run away from the babies, who will of course, try to follow her around the cage to be nursed and frighten her more. If left this way, the babies could die from chills.
In these cases, you should remove the babies and sow from the hutch, and introduce the babies to her one at a time. Hold the sow and let her smell each of her babies, then place her in a small space such as a box. Introduce the babies, one at a time, to the mother, even though she will probably start shrieking again. After the first has been introduced, wait and watch to see if she will settle down, and sense what the baby is. If she accepts the baby, you may slowly introduce the rest. If she continues to be afraid of them, then you will have to raise them as orphaned cavies.
Insufficient milk for the litter
If the sow is too young, or if the litter is large, she may not be able to produce enough milk to nurse all of her babies. If this is the case, you can either locate another lactating sow (with a litter under 10 days old) that the babies can suckle from, or you can assist the mother by feeding the babies a formula substitute for their mother's milk. Some formulas for nursing babies can be found here.
Orphaned cavies
If babies are rejected, or the mother dies during or shortly after labor, you will need to make arrangements to raise the babies. If you are fortunate enough to have another sow that has just given birth within the last one or two days, you can opt to try and raise the guinea pigs with her as a foster mother. To do this, remove all but one of the mother's litter, and rub your orphaned litter against these babies so that they will pick up their scent. Then introduce the orphans to their foster mother; she will sniff them, and then accept or reject them. If they are rejected, you'll have to hand-raise them.
If you have to hand-raise the babies, they will need a milk substitute formula every two hours during the daytime. Some formulas and feeding tips can be found here. If you feed them late at night before going to bed, and keep them very warm, they should be fine until the next morning. After each feeding, be sure to wash their mouths to remove any spilled milk, as guinea pigs are miserable if their coat gets sticky. You will need to feed them this way for the first four days.
You will also need to wipe the anus and genital organs of each cavy with a clean, damp cloth to induce urination and the passing of feces. If the father is present with the babies, he may actually perform this duty for you by licking them, but you should watch closely to make sure he is doing so.
After the fourth day, they will need to learn how to eat solid foods. Again, if the father is present, they may learn from him through observation, and may in fact have already picked it up. If not, any young cavy placed with the babies can teach them this activity; the babies will learn from imitation how to pick up pellets and fresh greens and put them into their mouths.
If you are interested in raising guinea pigs, you should consider joining your local cavy breeder's club, and talk with experienced breeders before starting. It is also recommended that you make sure that your area is not already overflowing with guinea pig breeders, as you shouldn't contribute to a guinea pig population that may already be bursting at the seams.
* Ground rules for breeding
* Mating
* Pregnancy
* Birth
* Caring for young cavies
* Complications
Ground rules for breeding
It's best to not breed your guinea pigs unless you are willing to keep all of the babies yourself, or you have found some responsible people who would like one or more of the your offsprings as a pet. Given the rapid breeding rate of guinea pigs, animal shelters constantly receive unwanted guinea pigs from irresponsible owners who allow their guinea pigs to breed over and over. Many of these animals are put to sleep, since owners can not be found for all of them. Several guinea pig "rescue" operations around the country do their best to find homes for all of these cavies, but it's simply not possible to find new owners for all of them. Pet stores aren't much better, as many stores mistreat their animals, or fail to give them proper care. You don't want to bring guinea pigs into a situation where they will be unwanted or abused.
That being said, females should not be bred until they weigh at least 500 g (just over 1 pound), which usually works out to 4 to 5 months of age. Younger sows can be too small to successfully deliver their babies, and may not have matured enough to properly care for their young. Also, no older female should have a first litter; somewhere between 9 and 12 months of age, the hip bones of a childless sow can start to fuse together. A litter after this happens will require a caesarean section, which is an extremely risky surgery that could threaten the life of the sow and her babies. If you are going to breed your sow, you should probably arrange for her first litter between the ages of 5 and 9 months. Otherwise, you might want to consider having your sow spayed for her own safety after nine months, if there is ever any chance that she may get pregnant.
For health reasons, many breeders will recommend that you not mate your boars until they are eight months old.
Mating
Male guinea pigs can mate at any time and, in fact, are very easily aroused: the mere scent of a female is enough to engage their instincts. However, females can only mate when they are in season. The vagina of a sow is actually blocked by a mucus plug when she is not in season. A sow's estrus cycle is typically 18 days, and when she goes into heat, this mucus plug clears so that she can accept the male. During this time, which can last for up to 24 hours, she and the male will mate several times.
When the male is aroused, which is pretty much several times an hour, he will lower his head and start walking around the females with slow, deliberate steps. He will make a rumbling sound as he does this, and wag his bottom from side to side. Sometimes, he will perch his front legs on something (like the side of the cage or a brick or whatever is handy), so that he can "dance" like this in order to attract the attention of the female. As he gets close to the female's behind, he may sniff her bottom and then try to mount; sometimes, if sufficiently aroused, hey may mount the female from the sides or the front, and might even try to mount another male (if present). In fact, if mixed with another species, such as rabbits, the male may even try to mount them, too.
As the male starts his mating dance, the females may start to squeak with anxiety, becoming louder as the male approaches. If the female is not ready to accept mating, either because she is not in season or she doesn't want to mate, and the male tries to advance, she may snap at him, bite at him or just run away. If the male is particularly persistent, she will let out a small spray of urine, usually in his face, to deter him.
If, however, she is in season, she may respond in kind. In fact, some females will even advertise their readiness to mate even if the male is not aroused. The female will lower her head and rumble just like the male does, and will raise her bottom slightly into the air. She may even wag her bottom slightly to attract the male's attention. The male may circle her a few times before positioning himself behind her to mount. Copulation lasts only a few seconds. They may mate several times each hour, sometimes as frequently as a few minutes apart.
Pregnancy
The gestation period for guinea pigs is typically between 60 and 70 days. Longer gestation times tend towards smaller litters, whereas shorter times tend towards large litters. The average litter size is 2 to 4, though they can carry as many as 8 or as few as 1.
During her pregnancy, your sow's vitamin C requirement will double, at least, to 20 mg/day. She may also demand more pellets and fresh vegetables, to aid in lactation and in providing for her developing babies. This, and a little bit of sugar (from fruits or clear fruit juice) will help prevent toxemia, which is an ailment that is most commonly seen in pregnant sows.
It is not necessary to remove the male during the pregnancy, though it is generally a good idea to do so in the last week before birth, since the female will come into season again within an hour after having her litter. Sometimes, however, the male can be considered a stressor in the final days of pregnancy, and you may need to separate them if he and the sow are not getting along. If you have multiple, pregnant sows housed together, then it is extremely important that they be separated during their gestation. The birth of one sow's litter can actually induce labor in the other sow, which can lead to a premature birth even if they were impregnated at roughly the same time.
Last, it is important that you make sure your sow's stress level stays low. Stress can cause abortions, premature births and stillbirths in guinea pigs, so don't make any radical changes in her environment throughout this time.
If your sow becomes ill, you should see a competent vet immediately. Treating a pregnant sow is always dangerous business, since her babies may not be able to withstand the shock of certain medications. A vet that is experienced in treating guinea pigs should be aware of what is, and is not, safe to do while she is in-pig.
Birth
Early into the second month of her term, the sow will start to become noticeably plump. As the babies grow in size, you will actually be able to feel their bodies and even estimate how large of a litter she will have. When the babies start kicking and moving inside her womb, she is roughly three weeks away from giving birth, give or take a few days.
You won't get many warning signs as the birth day approaches. Although some sows become noticeably "bitchy" in the last week, this is not true of all females. In short, there's really no way to predict when she will go into labor. Fortunately, you do not need to do anything for her to prepare for the babies, other than make sure she has plenty of soft bedding to nest in.
Most births tend to take place around dawn or dusk, which is when guinea pigs are most active. If you are fortunate enough to be present for the birth, you can watch quietly without disrupting the process. If the male is still with her, and he hasn't been neutered, then you should remove him immediately, as the sow will come into season within an hour after birth. Babies are typically born five minutes apart, and the entire litter should deliver within a half-hour. If it goes on any longer than this, it could mean that she is having trouble giving birth, and you will need to get her to a vet right away.
With each contraction, the mother will push the babies out, one at a time. When they emerge, she will reach down and, with her teeth, break the sack that covers the baby when it's in her womb. It is very important that she do this, or the baby will suffocate. After the entire litter has been delivered, she will pass the placenta, part or all of which is then eaten. There is very little "mess" left over after a guinea pig birth; all that will be seen are a few spots of blood here and there on the bedding.
The mother will then lick the babies clean. If the father is present, he may assist in this duty. Afterwards, she will direct the babies to a corner of the hutch, where they will huddle beneath her for warmth.
As mentioned above, within an hour after birth, the sow will come into season and will be ready for mating. You should never allow a sow to become pregnant so soon after giving birth, as it is extremely hard on her body to go from labor straight into pregnancy again. Most breeders recommend waiting at least two months to allow the sow to get back to her normal weight.
Caring for young cavies
Young cavies are almost fully independent of their mother at birth, requiring only her milk and her warmth. They are born with hair, teeth, claws and open eyes. They will begin to run around on their own within hours, and will start eating solid foods within a day. Every two hours, they will line up under their mother to nurse; though sows only have two teats, there is no fighting at the milk line since the babies can munch on hay, pellets and even drink from the water bottle, if it's in reach.
Like other animals that are born precocial, guinea pigs form their social bonds shortly after birth. It is important that they have human contact during this time to socialize and bond them to people. Unlike many other small mammals, the mother will not reject the babies if they are handled by humans, so the more you hold, pet and interact with them, the more they will grow up friendly towards, and less afraid of, humans.
The babies will continue to nurse for anywhere from three to four weeks. During this time, they will follow both the mother and father around the cage. During exercise time, the guinea pig family will tend to form a "guinea pig train", with the father or mother at the head, the other parent at the end and the babies in the middle. This lineup helps ensure that no young ones get lost while moving about. They will chirp and grunt to each other often, and if a baby does get separated from the group, he or she will squeal loudly until one of the parents comes over to lead him or her back to the family.
As they start to wean during the third week, they will nurse less often from the mother, and will begin to be more independent. By four weeks of age, all the babies should be completely weaned, and no longer require milk from their mother. At this point, you should start separating the males from the family. Males can become fertile at any point after weaning, and will be capable of mating with their mother. Females can come into season any time after one month of age, usually at 5 weeks, and can then be mated by their brothers or their father. Hence, separation of virile males and females is extremely important to prevent uncontrolled inbreeding.
After they have weaned, you may safely give away pets to new homes. For the first day or two, the baby will probably be somewhat frightened of its new environment, having lost the security of it's family and it's familiar hutch. Time, and lots of love and attention from the new owners, will be needed for the baby to adjust to it's new surroundings.
Complications
Not every pregnancy goes smoothly. If you have problems with your sow or her litter, you should see a veterinarian that is experienced in the treatment of guinea pigs. The information provided below is for your reference only, and is not meant to be a substitute for a visit to a competent vet.
Young sows
Sows should not be bred until they weigh at least 500 g. However, many female guinea pigs that are purchased from pet stores are housed with males, and are already pregnant before they come home. Hence, it is rather common for a young sow to give birth before she has completely matured. If your young sow is pregnant, there are some precautions that you can take to decrease the risks.
Sow fails to break the membranes on newborns
While in the mother's womb, that babies are enveloped in a membrane (or sack) and are protected by fluid. When the babies are born, the mother is supposed to reach down with her teeth and break the sack. If she does not do this, the babies will suffocate; often times, people may think her babies were stillborn, when in fact she did not break the sack in time. If you are lucky enough to be present during the birth, you can save any babies that are not released from their sacks.
Break the membrane over the nose, open the mouth and blow several breaths, in rapid succession into the babies throat. Move the legs to get circulation (and the heart) going, and the lungs. If the baby gasps, you may be able to save it. Keep it warm in your hands and continue to blow down it's throat until you can find a towel or cloth for drying it's body (rub gently!).
Once it starts to squeak, you are on the road to recovery. Keep it warm, but do not give it anything to drink. Cover the baby with a towel and place it near a source of heat, such as a warm water bottle, or insulate it well so it will retain it's body heat and not catch a chill. After about an hour or so, when the baby is able to stand on it's own, you can reintroduce it to it's mother. Because she hasn't cleaned the baby, she won't recognize it; put it under her body, and watch her very carefully to make sure she will accept it. If she rejects the baby, you may try again later, but if she continues to reject it then you will have to treat it as an orphaned cavy.
Premature termination of labor
If the sow is having an especially difficult labor, and can not deliver one or more of her babies, labor may terminate before they are all born. If you suspect that this is happening or might happen, then you should get her to a vet right away. If labor terminates with unborn babies in her womb, they will need to be surgically removed. The babies will die inside her and will poison her as they decompose if they are not removed immediately.
Rejected babies
Some sows may, on rare occasions reject one of their litter. She will refuse to nurse it, and will constantly move away from it if you try to introduce it to her. In these cases, you will have to treat the baby as an orphaned cavy.
Terrified mothers
Some sows are actually terrified of their own litter, even if they have partially cleaned the babies. In these cases, the mother will shriek wildly and run away from the babies, who will of course, try to follow her around the cage to be nursed and frighten her more. If left this way, the babies could die from chills.
In these cases, you should remove the babies and sow from the hutch, and introduce the babies to her one at a time. Hold the sow and let her smell each of her babies, then place her in a small space such as a box. Introduce the babies, one at a time, to the mother, even though she will probably start shrieking again. After the first has been introduced, wait and watch to see if she will settle down, and sense what the baby is. If she accepts the baby, you may slowly introduce the rest. If she continues to be afraid of them, then you will have to raise them as orphaned cavies.
Insufficient milk for the litter
If the sow is too young, or if the litter is large, she may not be able to produce enough milk to nurse all of her babies. If this is the case, you can either locate another lactating sow (with a litter under 10 days old) that the babies can suckle from, or you can assist the mother by feeding the babies a formula substitute for their mother's milk. Some formulas for nursing babies can be found here.
Orphaned cavies
If babies are rejected, or the mother dies during or shortly after labor, you will need to make arrangements to raise the babies. If you are fortunate enough to have another sow that has just given birth within the last one or two days, you can opt to try and raise the guinea pigs with her as a foster mother. To do this, remove all but one of the mother's litter, and rub your orphaned litter against these babies so that they will pick up their scent. Then introduce the orphans to their foster mother; she will sniff them, and then accept or reject them. If they are rejected, you'll have to hand-raise them.
If you have to hand-raise the babies, they will need a milk substitute formula every two hours during the daytime. Some formulas and feeding tips can be found here. If you feed them late at night before going to bed, and keep them very warm, they should be fine until the next morning. After each feeding, be sure to wash their mouths to remove any spilled milk, as guinea pigs are miserable if their coat gets sticky. You will need to feed them this way for the first four days.
You will also need to wipe the anus and genital organs of each cavy with a clean, damp cloth to induce urination and the passing of feces. If the father is present with the babies, he may actually perform this duty for you by licking them, but you should watch closely to make sure he is doing so.
After the fourth day, they will need to learn how to eat solid foods. Again, if the father is present, they may learn from him through observation, and may in fact have already picked it up. If not, any young cavy placed with the babies can teach them this activity; the babies will learn from imitation how to pick up pellets and fresh greens and put them into their mouths.
Advice for young, pregnant guinea pig sows
Advice for young, pregnant sows
It is not safe for a female guinea pig to be bred before she has at least 500g of body mass (just over 1 pound of weight), which usually works out to about 4 to 5 months of age, as she may not have developed enough to successfully deliver her litter. However, accidents can happen, and if you are ever in a situation where a young sow has gotten pregnant, the following advice may be able to help you out.
This information was compiled from various, experienced guinea-pig breeders on the net. As always, you should consult a veterinarian experienced with guinea pigs for assistance in these situations.
* The main problem with young sows is that they may be too small to deliver their babies. To keep the birth weight of the babies down, and make her delivery easier, cut back on the pellets and increase her portions of wet foods (greens, veggies and fruit). Pellets are high in fat, and can lead to larger animals. Avoid nuts and seeds, which are also high in oils and fats (this includes those guinea pig treat sticks).
Be warned, however, that any time you reduce the amount of pellets in a guinea pig's diet, you are running the risk of malnutrition. If you do opt to reduce the pellet intake to keep the birthweight down, you will nead to make sure that you are giving your sow a wide variety of fresh vegetables to guarantee that she is still obtaining her daily requirements of vitamins and minerals, particularly vitamin C and protein. Be very careful when you do this, and be sure to consult your veterinarian.
* Pregnant and nursing sows need 20mg of Vitamin C each day. If you are doing #1, then this one should not be a problem. Note that this is true for all pregnant sows, not just young ones, but it is still very important.
* Feeding the mother a little bit of sugar each day will also help in preventing toxemia. Clear juices, such as apple or cranberry juice are good sources, as are the non-citrus fruits, themselves.
* In very young mothers, the nurturing instinct is not always intact, and therefore they may not attend to the babies at birth. Be on the lookout for the birth, if possible, and make sure the mother immediately removes her young from their sacks as they are delivered. If she doesn't do this, you will have to do it for her, or the babies will suffocate.
* Young mothers also may not nurse or have enough milk to do so. If this is the case, you'll need to feed the babies with a formula and perform some of the parental duties (though if a male or another female is present, they may help out with everything except for, of course, the nursing).
* She should deliver the whole litter within 5 to 30 minutes. If her contractions go for more than 35-45 minutes, there is probably something wrong, and you'll either have to help her or get her to a vet (if you can in time). After 30 minutes, the chance the babies will be born alive drops drastically.
* Premature births are more common in younger sows, and if this happens the babies may not make it past the first day.
Don't let all of this scare you too much, though. Although the risks are real, most young sows give birth just fine, without complications. Still, it helps to be aware of what can go wrong.
It is not safe for a female guinea pig to be bred before she has at least 500g of body mass (just over 1 pound of weight), which usually works out to about 4 to 5 months of age, as she may not have developed enough to successfully deliver her litter. However, accidents can happen, and if you are ever in a situation where a young sow has gotten pregnant, the following advice may be able to help you out.
This information was compiled from various, experienced guinea-pig breeders on the net. As always, you should consult a veterinarian experienced with guinea pigs for assistance in these situations.
* The main problem with young sows is that they may be too small to deliver their babies. To keep the birth weight of the babies down, and make her delivery easier, cut back on the pellets and increase her portions of wet foods (greens, veggies and fruit). Pellets are high in fat, and can lead to larger animals. Avoid nuts and seeds, which are also high in oils and fats (this includes those guinea pig treat sticks).
Be warned, however, that any time you reduce the amount of pellets in a guinea pig's diet, you are running the risk of malnutrition. If you do opt to reduce the pellet intake to keep the birthweight down, you will nead to make sure that you are giving your sow a wide variety of fresh vegetables to guarantee that she is still obtaining her daily requirements of vitamins and minerals, particularly vitamin C and protein. Be very careful when you do this, and be sure to consult your veterinarian.
* Pregnant and nursing sows need 20mg of Vitamin C each day. If you are doing #1, then this one should not be a problem. Note that this is true for all pregnant sows, not just young ones, but it is still very important.
* Feeding the mother a little bit of sugar each day will also help in preventing toxemia. Clear juices, such as apple or cranberry juice are good sources, as are the non-citrus fruits, themselves.
* In very young mothers, the nurturing instinct is not always intact, and therefore they may not attend to the babies at birth. Be on the lookout for the birth, if possible, and make sure the mother immediately removes her young from their sacks as they are delivered. If she doesn't do this, you will have to do it for her, or the babies will suffocate.
* Young mothers also may not nurse or have enough milk to do so. If this is the case, you'll need to feed the babies with a formula and perform some of the parental duties (though if a male or another female is present, they may help out with everything except for, of course, the nursing).
* She should deliver the whole litter within 5 to 30 minutes. If her contractions go for more than 35-45 minutes, there is probably something wrong, and you'll either have to help her or get her to a vet (if you can in time). After 30 minutes, the chance the babies will be born alive drops drastically.
* Premature births are more common in younger sows, and if this happens the babies may not make it past the first day.
Don't let all of this scare you too much, though. Although the risks are real, most young sows give birth just fine, without complications. Still, it helps to be aware of what can go wrong.
Hedgehog care sheet
PREPARATIONS:
1. Plastic Bin - [with good ventilation, light weight thus easy to clean]
2. Woodshavings - [with no fine dust]
3. Catfood - [for staple diet ie., Iams, Friskies, Whiskas, Etc.]
4. Water Bottle or Dish Bowls - [for water and food]
5. Treats - [3x a week ie., Super worms, Meal worms, Crickets, Etc.]
6. Exercise Wheel - [If available]
BREEDING:
- 6 months is the best breeding age, though depending on your hedgehog’s temperament she can be bred as early as 5 months [MINIMUM].
- Male and Female should be in optimum health before breeding.
- Male should have no female visitor on his cage for the last 2 weeks prior to breeding.
- Weigh the Female before the stud starts [very useful in determining on the 4th week]
- Put the Female into the Male's cage and remove all obstacles that might get on their way.
- They have an average of 35 - 37 days gestation period.
- Clean the cage and prepare a nest box that has enough space for the Mom and your expected hoglets a week before her expected due date.
SIGNS OF PREGNANCY:
- Enlargement of her tummy [very visible on the 4th week, especially if your female is thin from the start of breeding]
- Nipples will be bigger than the usual and somewhat more pink.
- Eating and drinking more than the usual
- Weight increase [if she has gain weight of about 50 grams or more, then probably she is pregnant
- If the entrance is almost blocked by woodshavings, then she is about to give birth
Care of: ronnfive.
1. Plastic Bin - [with good ventilation, light weight thus easy to clean]
2. Woodshavings - [with no fine dust]
3. Catfood - [for staple diet ie., Iams, Friskies, Whiskas, Etc.]
4. Water Bottle or Dish Bowls - [for water and food]
5. Treats - [3x a week ie., Super worms, Meal worms, Crickets, Etc.]
6. Exercise Wheel - [If available]
BREEDING:
- 6 months is the best breeding age, though depending on your hedgehog’s temperament she can be bred as early as 5 months [MINIMUM].
- Male and Female should be in optimum health before breeding.
- Male should have no female visitor on his cage for the last 2 weeks prior to breeding.
- Weigh the Female before the stud starts [very useful in determining on the 4th week]
- Put the Female into the Male's cage and remove all obstacles that might get on their way.
- They have an average of 35 - 37 days gestation period.
- Clean the cage and prepare a nest box that has enough space for the Mom and your expected hoglets a week before her expected due date.
SIGNS OF PREGNANCY:
- Enlargement of her tummy [very visible on the 4th week, especially if your female is thin from the start of breeding]
- Nipples will be bigger than the usual and somewhat more pink.
- Eating and drinking more than the usual
- Weight increase [if she has gain weight of about 50 grams or more, then probably she is pregnant
- If the entrance is almost blocked by woodshavings, then she is about to give birth
Care of: ronnfive.
How to Bathe your Hedgehog
Here are the illustrated instructions to the oatmeal bath
1. buy a ready to cook not instant oatmeal. any brand will do. the price for this brand is only less than 40 pesos. if you
have 4-6 hedgehogs a 500g will lasts more than a month if you bathe your hedgies in a weekly schedule.
half cup of oatmeal is enough for two hedgies.
half cup of oatmeal is enough for two hedgies.
3. soak it for a minute or two in clean water, then squeeze until the water becomes milky. then set aside.
4. clean your hedgie with clean water. used a sort toothbrush for scrubbing the quills.
5. pour the oatmeal "juice" to the hedgehog. let him/her soak for about 2 minutes. quick rinse with clean water.
6. let you hedgie snuggle in a towel to dry.
this method really helps hedgies that turns into huff ball when quilling. it soothes their skin and relaxes it from stress during quiling. this can also becomes a bonding time for you and your hedgies.
it is important to let your hedgies to completely dry before putting it back into its cage especially if you are using wood shavings as substrate.
1. buy a ready to cook not instant oatmeal. any brand will do. the price for this brand is only less than 40 pesos. if you
have 4-6 hedgehogs a 500g will lasts more than a month if you bathe your hedgies in a weekly schedule.
half cup of oatmeal is enough for two hedgies.
half cup of oatmeal is enough for two hedgies.
3. soak it for a minute or two in clean water, then squeeze until the water becomes milky. then set aside.
4. clean your hedgie with clean water. used a sort toothbrush for scrubbing the quills.
5. pour the oatmeal "juice" to the hedgehog. let him/her soak for about 2 minutes. quick rinse with clean water.
6. let you hedgie snuggle in a towel to dry.
this method really helps hedgies that turns into huff ball when quilling. it soothes their skin and relaxes it from stress during quiling. this can also becomes a bonding time for you and your hedgies.
it is important to let your hedgies to completely dry before putting it back into its cage especially if you are using wood shavings as substrate.